First, there were 2 weeks of intensive brainstorming, complete with lists of all the things I wish I could make. Discussions with family to coordinate food, including a conference call in the grocery parking lot to finalize my family's menu. While I was flipping through cookbooks, I also made lists for Christmas cookies and Christmas dinner foods (with the emphasis on desserts, naturally).
Dinner 1: Eric's family
Style: deliciously traditional
(I fall for a classic green bean casserole with French's fried onions on top!)
My contribution: Appalachian apple stack cake + Eric made his incredible mashed potatoes
When I asked Eric's mom what I could bring, she asked if I would have the time and desire to make a cake from her childhood in Tennessee - an Appalachian stack cake. The cake itself is composed of several thin layers of a dense spice cake, each spread with an apple butter-like filling. I was game for a seemingly simple challenge. I did, however, have a bit of an issue using shortening in something other than pie crust. The only other time I've seen shortening used in a cake recipe was in the various Baked cookbooks, so I did some research. A few sources later and I now know shortening:
- ...can be made from different fats. Lard = fat surrounding specific organs in animals that's been rendered (I'll stay away from that, thanks). Vegetable shortening = oil derived from vegetables (such as palm plants) that is in a solid state.
- ...is used in baked goods to provide a stronger structure. In cookies, shortening aids in maintaining the shape of the cookie, so it doesn't spread out too much when baking. In cakes, shortening helps create a sturdier cake than using butter alone. Since I was building a multi-layer cake, sturdier seemed like the wiser option.
- ...can have a distinctive and, for many people, off-putting mouthfeel when consumed. This is because shortening melts at the body's natural temperature, so it literally melts in your mouth. Some people find this very noticeable and will avoid items containing shortening for that reason. It makes me think of Krispy Kreme glaze - while delicious, it somehow coats my mouth in a less than pleasant way.
- ...can usually be substituted with an equal amount of butter, if you'd prefer not to use shortening. Your baked good make have less structural strength or may spread out more, but it'll be delicious from butter. I was tempted to go this route....but in the name of kitchen experimentation, I stuck with using shortening.
The cake wasn't difficult to make, aside from manipulating the thick, sticky batter to cover the entire pan. Also, I was only able to coax 5 layers from the recipe instead of the promised 6, but that's hardly a problem. Each layer is baked separately, so I had a four pan (2 cake pans + 2 springform pans) operation going. The filling is simply dried apples, cider, brown sugar, and spices cooked and pureed to apple butter consistency. The key to this cake's flavor is assembling it at least 24 hours in advance, so the filling can soak into the dense cake layers.
My aunt is serving this cake for Christmas dinner with her in-law side of the family, except she's swapping the apple filling for a boozy fig one. It sounds even better!
Dinner 2: My mom's side of the family
Style: Traditional items with a twist
(hello, roasted brussels sprouts! mashed potatoes with goat cheese! apple slaw!)
My contributions: bruleed pumpkin pie with chocolate crust + apple-pear-cranberry pie with crumble topping + white bean dip
The usual deliberation that goes into an family meal involves several phone calls and emails between me, my mom and my aunt. All of use love to cook and to try new flavors. Thankfully, our family will eat almost anything we put in front of them. It doesn't hurt that we have an overwhelming selection for every meal! This year, our unofficial theme seemed to be Bon Appetit magazine's Thanksgiving issue, since over half our dishes originated in its pages. That includes my bruleed pumpkin pie with chocolate crust...though it stubbornly refused to develop much of that gorgeously crunchy brulee crust.
I was nerdily excited when making the chocolate crust, as the recipe called for me to roll the dough into a thick disc, cut it into quarters, stack the quarters up, and roll it back into a disc. Three times total. It was basically like the process of lamination when making puff pastry (not that I've actually done such a thing! But I've heard about it from Alton Brown and other baking geniuses). During lamination, you roll the dough into a rectangular sheet, fold it into thirds (like a letter), and roll it out again. This creates layers of butter in the dough so it can puff up during baking when water evaporates from the butter.
My other pie is just...everything. It's a crumble topping + apples + pears + fresh cranberries + rum soaked raisins + an all butter crust. If that's not a combination for wintry pie perfection, I don't know what is! It's a recipe from Melissa Clark, whose cookbooks have become one of my absolute favorites in the kitchen. I made it last winter and have been biding my time to make it again. It's a simple pie to make and the layers of flavor and texture are so worth it.
So, well after the fact (sorry!), I hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving!
But I'm just in time to wish you a Happy Holidays!























