When I asked my friend Manning (well, it's actually Eric's friend from college who has become my friend too) a few years ago what I could bake him for his birthday, he asked for Dutch apple pie. Expecting an entirely different response, like "a cake", I was surprised.
This isn't the first apple pie I've baked. I spent years apprenticing at my grandma's table, learning how to crimp the edges just so. Then I tried my hand, dabbling with a Martha Stewart recipe here and an Alton Brown recipe there. It turns out, I'm like Goldilocks when it comes to apple pie recipes. Nothing is
just right. Each recipe has its own pros and cons -- too much crust, too much sugar, double crust instead of crumble topping, a splash of apple cider vinegar for a tart surprise...
This year, as I made Manning's birthday pie, I cobbled together multiple recipes (Alton's classic pie crust, Martha's filling with a splash of apple cider vinegar a la Alton, and a crumble topping inspired by both Martha and Deb Perelman but totally improvised by me) to create what I dare claim is my best pie to date.
Oh don't worry. I'll keep searching for an apple pie that is
just right. It's the chase that's fun, after all. Well, that and the eating part.
Dutch Apple Pie a la Ashley
Crust recipe from Alton Brown, Filling recipe adapted from Martha Stewart (with a splash of Alton Brown), Crumble recipe loosely adapted from Martha Stewart and Deb Perelman
Makes 1 pie
In case you're wondering why I made two pies, it's because my father had not-so-subtly hinted he wanted a plain old apple pie for Christmas (even though he'd been steadily diminishing our supply of Christmas cookies for weeks).
Ingredients:
For the crust:
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, chilled
2 tbsp. lard or shortening, chilled
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling the dough
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup ice water
optional - use 2 tbsp. plain vodka, then use ice water for any remaining liquid needed
For the filling:
Approximately 3 pounds of baking apples (I prefer Honeycrisp, Braeburn, MacIntosh, Jonathan, and Granny Smith. A mix is even better for flavor and texture.)
1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp. all-purpose flour
3 tbsp. granulated sugar
1 tbsp. light brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1/8 tsp. salt
optional: about 1/4 tsp. ground grains of paradise
For the crumble topping:
1 1/4 cups old-fashioned oats
1/2 cup plus 3 tbsp. light brown sugar
3 tbsp. turbinado/raw sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1/8 tsp. salt
10 tbsp. (11/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into cubes and softened to room temperature
Preparation:
For the crust:
Place butter and lard/shortening in the freezer for 10-15 minutes. Keep them there until ready to use.
Meanwhile, combine the flour and salt in a food processor. Pulse 4 times to mix everything well. Add the chilled butter chunks and pulse 5 times, so the texture looks mealy, with still recognizable pieces of butter the size of peas visible. Add the chilled lard/shortening and pulse 4 times, so that the texture now looks more like a very rough cornmeal.
Now pay attention! Add 2-3 tbsp. of your ice water (or, if using the vodka, add 2 tbsp. vodka and 1 tbsp. ice water) to the bowl, sprinkling it to cover as much of the surface as possible. Pulse 5 times. Wait for 1 minute before testing your dough. Seriously, just wait a moment. It'll keep you from adding too much liquid too quickly. Continue to add ice water in 1-2 tbsp. increments (add, pulse, wait 1 minute, check consistency) until the dough holds together when squeezed. Stop adding liquid before the dough becomes sticky/tacky; if you already went there, add a bit more flour (about 1 tbsp. increments) sprinkled around the top.
Transfer the dough to a sheet of cling wrap and press it into a roughly disc-like shape and wrap tightly in the cling wrap. Store in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days. This allows the flour to hydrate and rechills the fats, which makes for a tender and flaky crust when cooked. (Psst - now is a good time to get started on the filling and the crumble!)
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I had to be resourceful and use a wine bottle as my rolling pin. Wine bottle is NOT to be confused with the "home security device" French rolling pin we have at our apartment. |
After the dough disc is chilled, set it on the counter. I like to sandwich it between two pieces of wax paper when rolling, but you can also go direct contact with counter and rolling pin, sprinkling flour as needed to reduce sticking. Roll the dough out to a 10-11 inch circle (slightly larger than your 9 inch pie plate). I find turning the dough a quarter-turn every time helps maintain a relatively even thickness and circular shape.
Transfer the dough circle to your pie plate, using gentle pressure to mold the dough to the pan. If you're feeling fancy, crimp the edges. If you're feeling minimalist, just trim away excess dough for a flat edge even with the pie plate. Dock the dough with a fork. Store in the refrigerator until ready to assemble the pie.
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| "Hi!" |
Preparation (continued):
For the filling:
Peel and core apples, then cut into roughly 1/4 - 1/2 inch slices.
In a large bowl, toss the apple slices with the remaining filling ingredients until evenly coated.
Preparation (continued):
For the crumble topping:
In a medium bowl, stir together the dry ingredients (oats, sugars, flour, spices) until thoroughly mixed. Add the butter and use either a fork, pastry cutter, or your fingertips to work the butter into the mixture. It should be the texture of coarse meal, with no visible pieces of butter and nearly every oat moistened with butter.
Preparation (continued):
For assembly and baking:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Farenheit.
Remove the pie plate containing your docked pie dough from the refrigerator. Pour the apple filling into the pie plate, distributing evenly with your hands. Gently spoon or place handfuls of the crumble mixture on top, trying to evenly cover the apples without compressing the crumble.
Bake for 50-60 minutes, until the crust and crumble topping are lightly golden brown and the filling is bubbling. Allow to cool 10 minutes before cutting a piece and serving with vanilla ice cream. Even better, have a piece cold for breakfast the next morning.
Happy Birthday, Manning!